Sometime in the middle of the night, I heard a loud crackle emanating from the sky followed by rain pelting the roof and grounds of Saj Homes. Too drowsy from my slumber to give a shit, I brush it off and fall back to sleep. Waking around 7 AM, I notice the rain hasn't subsided. It didn't matter I tell myself, I'm leaving Fort Cochin anyways. I just hope the rain doesn't follow me to Alleppey. I say my goodbyes to Sam and Saj, and with my rain jacket and backpack over my shoulders, I catch a rickshaw, then a ferry, then a bus, then a rickshaw, lastly a canoe boat to GreenPalms Homestay in Chennankarry outside of Alleppey.
I had to take a canoe boat because my homestay was located on an island. Sweet huh? The ferryman came from the other bank to pick me up. At this point, I couldn't help but think of Charon's crossing. With a little unease, I slowly board the canoe. Having been deposited on the other side, I make my way to GreenPalms where I'm immediately welcomed to have some lunch.
Later that evening, the other guests Karen, Susie, Jacob (pronounced Yacob), and I go for an evening walk with Thomas the proprietor. We learn about the town's two main crops, rice and coconut. Thomas also educates us on the recent development of tourism which centers on the hire of a thatched houseboat. Each houseboat can accomodate anywhere from 1-14 people with a staff of 3-5. This tourism boom while providing income for the local economy has also contributed to an increase in pollution.
After the walk through rice paddy fields currently in harvest, we take a canoe back to the homestay. The sun has already set and its dark out. Lightning and thunderstorms erupt overhead. The night is beginning to look ominous and we're all a bit worried being out on the water. With two oarsmen in the back and Thomas occupying the front, and the four of us seated in the middle , we slowly make our way back to the homestay. Thomas begins singing folk songs and rapping the side of the canoe to create a rythmic beat. Both oarsmen follow Thomas' lead and repeat the chorus line. The interplay of singing lightens the mood and soon we are enjoying ourselves. Looking to the banks, we spot fireflies dancing in the bushes. Thomas continues singing 4-5 songs until we reach home. This proves to be a magical night that would be better if not for the lightning, thunder and rain. I sure wish Marie were here right now!
Returning home we find a meal of paratha, curried potatoes and salad waiting for us. It was a real treat to have fresh cucumber, tomato and red onion salad. It reminds me of my Mom's recipe. All I've had thus far in regards to vegetables have been in curries that have been stewed. Nothing is raw. I crave biting into a fresh crisp salad.
I retire early to get some much needed rest.
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