10/31/10 Madurai

I decide to sleep in a bit before moving on to my next destination, the city of Madurai in the state of Tamil Nadu.  After checking out, I heave my backpack on and stroll to a bus station located across a checkpoint bordering Kerala and Tamil Nadu.  Before crossing over, I walk into a restaurant I've patronized before.  There I have the most inexpensive meal I've had thus far.  The total cost for a Masala Dosa and a glass of milk tea came out to Rs28.  That's equivalent to $0.63!  Beat that!  After my outrageously cheap breakfast, I engage in my usual routine of asking bus drivers and locals for help in finding the right bus to my destination.  Just to explain the bus system here in India, you first need to figure out which bus to board and second you pay your way to the on-board bus attendant based on your destination.  On one occasion I was able to figure out which bus to take as the destination was painted on the window in English lettering.  But that was only once.  Like the times before I had to rely on the help of others, and this time I needed help to board 3 separate buses to Madurai.  It's truly something to totally put yourself out there and trust the guidance of strangers.  I consistently put myself in the hands of the Indian locals and they have yet to lead me astray. 

Dropped off at the Periyar bus stand in Madurai, I was like a deer caught in headlights.  There was a massive amount of pedestrians and traffic.  I really didn't know where to find my hotel.  LP states in the guide that the bus station was located some 6km NE of the city.  Taking it all in and keeping cool, I decided to just walk.  I must have passed hundreds of people, "Froggered" my way through street crossings, pushed my way through crowds situated in front of street vendors, and dodged a couple of touts.  All of a sudden I look up behind me from where I intially came and low and behold there it was, the tallest building in the skyline, the Madurai Residency.

Sometime after checking in, I take a rickshaw to visit Tirumalai Nayak Palace and the Gandhi Museum.  Compared to the palace which is currently in a state of decay, the Gandhi Museum was informative and located in a grand white building.  Housed in its interior was the loincloth Gandhi was murdered in. 

The temperature is climbing in this interior city.  Craving some beer to beat the heat I duck into my hotel's dimly lit lounge bar.  There I meet a local Indian businessman.  We strike up a political conversation over beers and various complimentary Indian snacks.  An hour into our talks, a local politician joins our table (place was crowded).  We exchange greetings and soon start to talk about India.  I notice the India businessman was trying to keep the conversation light and non-political and so I follow suit.  The businessman seemed like he was treading on thin ice and this got me a little leery.  Nothing came of it as the politician needed to depart for an engagement. I never did find out the identity of the politician but it made for an interesting evening.